Hiking reflections: It’s not just about the goal

It’s planning time for our hike once again. We’ve booked ourselves in for backcountry hikes in Jasper National Park this September and while checking out the views and researching conditions for the hike, I’m reminded again of the past hikes we’ve gone on before.

It’s often the journey which sticks with us the most and sometimes, it’s not just about getting to our goal. The journey is also the most important part of hiking. Hence, I’m hoping that my research helps us be better prepared this time. Not that we weren’t the last time during our snow camping trip. We just weren’t toughened enough to hike through the conditions. We are urban people who also yearn for the outdoors, nature and quiet.

I think backcountry hiking is something which one needs to experience before even furthering the research. Much like getting work experience first before taking your MBA. It enriches knowledge absorption and appreciation. I did not research this extensively during our first few hikes. Although, the first hiking trip at Mount Robson in 2014, turned out well, our backpack system was a mess, plus I had so many blisters and a loose toenail.

M had a backpack which looked more like a day pack, for a 4-day/3-night hike. And he had our foam mattresses hanging off the bag, in addition to some other dry sack and carried two cooler bags, like we were off for a 4-day picnic. I carried M’s clothes in my 65 liters backpack.

We have definitely ‘graduated’ from this into this:

New Zealand_Greenstone and Caples
New Zealand, Greenstone and Caples, September 2015

And this:

Healy Pass to Shadow Lake, October 2017

Mount Robson, 2014, still tops all other hiking experiences so far because the route was well-marked, we were better prepared (again, despite how our backpacks were packed), Berg Lake was magical, fewer flies and bugs or even the lack thereof, deer spotting at our campsite, a curious chipmunk which came right up to our trash bag at our tentpad and warmer temperatures.

Our next hiking trip was in 2015 in New Zealand. We initially wanted to do the popular Routeburn trail, but was informed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) folks that some trails are washed out from the flood. So, we searched for other trails and decided on Greenstone and Caples.

Greenstone and Caples, 2015, is not a tough trail. It was tedious as we took a wrong turn and went AROUND the lake, which set us back a day. It was a psychological setback more than anything else. We setup camp on the first day near the river and I think that was the best spot. We were informed by DOC folks that it was too early in Spring for there to be flies at that time. We did not bring the bug spray. Big mistake. The moment we stopped, we had a swam around us and our heads. It was crazy! The next day, we hiked through a forest and river flats. The route wasn’t well-marked and we were looking out for signs and orange posts. The distances do not really match up to what was mentioned on the map. I was ill-prepared for sleep during this trip. The ground was freezing cold at night and I had this bubble mattress with lots of air circulating under me. It made me even colder and I woke up with stiff and painful back. In the end, we slept in the huts along the way. The huts were quite comfortable but you would have no privacy. The huts are mostly long bunks which you would share with other hikers. We shared a hut with another hiker who really snored…. i’ve shared a tent and room with snorers whom I thought was the worst before, but this one, topped it. I was lucky i brought my ear plugs and eye cover. They are now in my mandatory items packing list. We’ve also tried to shower stealthily with other hikers around. And exposing our bare skins to sand flies. We’ve also managed not to be hunted by hunters as we discovered that it was just at the end of hunting season then. We stayed with a roomful of five hunters at our last pitstop. There were bloody deer antlers just drying out outside the hut where we brush and wash up…We also met a chatty vagabond at that hut. He hikes from one place to another and just stays at hiking huts. He eats the leftovers from hikers who leave food behind at the huts and he grows his own sprouts…which he showed us…if it’s any consolation, it didn’t rain until our last day. There were hikers who wanted to wait it out at the hut with the hunters. We were prepared to call it a day at that point in our journey. We waited for the rain to subside a little and hiked out. Since it was our last day, we didn’t care that much about our shoes getting wet. Our raincoats didn’t really keep us dry. We perspired inside and just got wet outside. It was really a counter intuitive situation. We just wanted to get to our car. All in all, the journey was interesting on hindsight.

We went on another hike in 2016. This ended almost prematurely. We intended to hike the Besseggen Ridge in Norway.

Besseggen Ridge, Jotunheimen, Norway, August 2016. It is a very popular hike in Norway. There were lots of people at the carpark and around the area when we started. Before we started our hike, we already had a setback then when we were about to fly from Prague to Copenhagen after attending M’s sister’s wedding. He forgot his driver’s licence back home and we were supposed to drive from Copenhagen to Oslo, where we’d booked a night at the hotel before continuing our journey to where we start our hike. In the end, I drove us from Copenhagen to Oslo that day and it was my first time driving on the right side. The challenge was actually in getting M’s driver’s licence as we’d experienced. My father sent it via DHL to us and initially, we had the delivery address down as one of the DHL centers in Lillehammer , en route to Jotunheimen. Of course, DHL does not deliver to its own delivery center. The package was rejected and returned to Oslo, DHL center at the airport. Yes, we checked the location before setting off, to chase down that elusive DHL package. We finally picked it up at the main cargo facility at Oslo airport, after three days of waiting.

It started raining on our way to Jotunheimen and continued raining. In fact, it was a pretty wet hike. It rained on and off. We took the wrong turn from the get-go. After an hour into the hike, we were wondering why hasn’t the trail started to gain in elevation. We suspected that we were on the wrong route. We were. We had a family with a young boy who overtook us a couple of times on the trail…and I slipped twice. The second time hurt so badly that I had just about given up. I fell flat on my face with my backpack and a twig on the ground at my throat. We spent two nights at the campsite deciding if we wanted to continue as the weather was not too great as well. We decided to call it a day and took the ferry out, instead of hiking back out.

We stuck to day hikes in Norway after that failed hike.

We didn’t stop hiking after that. We went on another hike in October 2017, this time back in Canada. It was past shoulder season by then and we experienced snow camping!

Healy Pass to Shadow Lake, 2017. We had to get snowshoes by the time we got down to hiking. We initially wanted to hike Skoki, which was one of the few trails still open in shoulder season. We decided on Healy Pass as there isn’t as much snow then. It started snowing on our way up and the trail was completely covered in snow on our way down. Because of the cold and darkness by the time we get to camp, we ended up eating dried food and protein bars instead of cooking. Plus, the bear poles are usually a bit further from camp. Hiking and camping in the snow certainly meant taking more load as we had heavier clothes and more equipment it seems. We had snowshoes strapped onto the bag when we weren’t using them, we brought thick gloves which looked like ski gloves and a new addition from an outlet store. It was certainly not fun waking up in the night to pee in the snow…and hiking in the snow meant that your shoes and socks are wet during the trip.

Hiking 2018: 

Each time we go hiking, we buy new gear; be it more clothes, or a change of equipment. I bought a new insulated mattress last trip, Yaktraxs and more thermal wear from MEC. My best piece of thermal wear still remains as the Rab thermal pants I bought sometime back. Good socks make such a big difference too! I’m probably able to appreciate the insights on hiking and equipment by Andrew Skurka [The Ultimate Hiker’s Gear Guide]  now compared with before when we first started hiking or before we started.

With each hike, we learn something new. I believe we did get our sleeping equipment right. I like being slightly toasty inside my sleeping bag, so I use a liner inside my Big Agnes mummy sleeping bag. It looks huge but it is quite compressible. The foam mattress has great value. We use that as base, followed with our sleeping pad and then the sleeping bag. It keeps you off the cold ground. As I’ve learnt in New Zealand, sleeping with the cold on your back is not pleasant. Next, my small pillow. I realize may not be working very well as it moves around way too much for me to be comfortable. So that’s going into a new shopping list this year. I bring dedicated sleepwear which becomes my last day wear sometimes. I find that having dedicated camp/sleepwear adds to comfort in the tent.

For clothes, I have found myself overheating before which made me really tired and I wanted to take everything off. So I hope I have found my optimal clothes system suitable for the weather conditions. I do like my current light outer shell from Helly Hanson but probably need a better mid-layer.

What I think we can do better this time is our meal plan. We both have sensitive guts and packing food which we both like and won’t cause major stomach problems, light, easy to pack and easy to cook, can be challenging. I’ve learnt that you should just pack what you want to eat and it doesn’t need to be healthy. Trail mixes can be great for that protein and energy boost but somehow pales in comparison to a chocolate bar, nougat or even gummies. Finding a good balance of good nutrition and what we crave can make it more enjoyable.

What I miss is having some snacks at hand in the tent. That is something we can’t have when camping in Canada as most campsites have very strict rules around keeping a clean site – with no food trace. All food and cookery must be kept in bear lockers or bear poles.

Sometimes, the fun is also in the planning. I am looking forward to our next journey…our goal, making it an enjoyable journey.


Canada outdoors love affair 

​Our first hiking and camping trip together was in Canada during a visit home (for M). Now it feels like a homecoming to me too when I recall the country’s great outdoors, fresh air, clean water, marvellous mountains, lakes and chalets.

We’ve gone hiking in other regions like New Zealand and Norway after, but I am looking forward to hiking and camping in Canada again. I only wish that we were staying in Canada for a longer duration… We would hike and camp in BC and Newfoundland. Choices…. Too many…

Happy 150th Canada and thank you for the free pass! #showusyourpass #explorecanada


Okay, so quick update. We ended up going for our hike in Canada late-October to early-November. As you know, weather at that time isn’t ideal for camping and hiking. Additionally, we didn’t use our Canada 150 pass since we didn’t stay at the National Parks as we went during off-season.

Sundays Beach Club in Bali

Sunday beach club for every other day. We were there today, on Valentine’s Day and were treated to a lovely view of blue skies and blue sea. This place is about a 30 minutes drive from Nusa Dua. We took a furnicular of sorts down to the beach. You pay an entrance fee of 300,000 IDR per person.

The current was strong when the tide was in but settled into a much calmer state when it went out later in the afternoon.

The beach club with its popular reviews was rather crowded.

Well worth a visit.

Walking in Norway – Part 2

If you have read Walking in Norway…Part 1, you would know that we were in Oslo and waiting for the driver’s licence.

After breakfast at the hotel that morning, we drove into Oslo city the next day to get some supplies for our hike and to do some laundry. We managed to do two things. Getting fined SGD 60 equivalent in NOK parking for 5 minutes in the wrong parking spot while we checked out one of the supermarkets. The other thing we managed to do was drive in a loop in and out of the city as a few roads were closed and we were just trying to get to an outdoor shop. (Yes, I was still driving then as we were waiting to receive the licence.) I should also mention here that the third thing I managed to do which took some skill…was empty almost the whole lot of our laundry soap for two loads of laundry at the laundromat.

It would have been convenient if the hotel had a laundromat or provided laundry service. We went to a laundromat in Oslo and waited for a long time for our loads of laundry to be done. It was close to dinner time by the time we were done and we walked back to the car with our bags of laundry.

While driving around the city in Oslo, we noticed a few food delivery on bicycles and were just thinking that it was interesting and so urban. (We returned to Singapore and noticed that Deliveroo and Ubereats had also started bicycle delivery service here.)

We had takeaway subway for dinner that night. Thank goodness for Subway almost everywhere in the world. When you run out of economical food options, just have Subway.

The next morning, we noticed on the tracking site that the parcel has already landed in Norway and was re-directed from DHL in Lillehammer to Oslo Gardermoen airport, getting re-delivered again to Lillehammer that day before it heads back to Singapore. We called DHL and attempted to speak with someone who could re-direct the parcel from its route to Lillehammer back to Oslo so that we could pick it from the DHL near the airport. We thought it was silly for them to keep trying to deliver the package to the same place which did not allow such a service and was the same company… We were not going to chase down the DHL truck on the highway and so we asked for it to be brought back to Oslo Gardermoen DHL facility right away. They agreed and that it will most likely reach Gardermoen before 3pm or so.

That day, although we did not fly through Prague into Oslo, we had the experience of sitting at the airport for four hours. We staked out at the airport’s Starbucks for almost half that time, drinking so much coffee and eating cakes, which cost more than the Starbucks in Singapore…and the Starbucks in Singapore is more expensive than the Starbucks in Canada and the US, including the Starbucks in Prague. Our plan was to collect the package from the DHL facility near the airport and then head over to the Sixt rental car office at Gardermoen to register M as the second driver for the vehicle. After which, we would be on our way to the next location which we had not decided as it depended on where we would end up by nightfall.

We waited at the carpark next to the DHL facility for another half an hour to forty five minutes. After a few more calls to DHL, a guy called us to say that he’s driving over in a DHL car to pass us the package. So we had the exchange done. We drove back to the airport and parked at the outdoor carpark near the Sixt office. It was actually not necessary to head over to the office as we found out later after having waited for a while to speak with a customer service officer. She informed us that as long as the person driving has a relevant licence, we didn’t need to register the other driver(s). So driving in the Nordics is actually more convenient than in Canada, the US or NZ. We were required to register ALL drivers and to top up insurance for each driver.

So that was that. I was finally relieved of full-time driving duty. M drove around the block while I picked up more coffee and snacks from Starbucks for our drive towards Jotunheimen. We hope to reach Heidal or Otta for an overnight stay. We reached the area of Otta at about 8:30pm and started searching for hotels on our mobile devices with data roaming and hotspots.

Continue reading Walking in Norway – Part 2

Walking in Norway – Part 1

We left for Norway or rather Copenhagen after Prague. But not before we almost ‘lost’ the house cats in Prague…

One of the housecats in Prague. This cat is rather adorable in his own way. He loves eating and purrs a lot. These cats hardly wander into the rooms when we leave the doors open. They love the garden and often wander outside. Which was how we managed to lock them out for a whole night. It was the day of the wedding and we were out for the whole day and it was late when we got back that night. We didn’t check if the cats were in the house and just went to bed. We woke the next day and it occured to me then that I haven’t seen the cats in  a while. I asked M’s mom if she has. So we started looking for the cat and kept the door of the kitchen opened for them to come in if they were in the garden. This big grey cat came out from the garden hedges all soaked and he was mewing piteously when he was walking gingerly over to the kitchen door. The other cat slipped in a little more dignified manner when we all weren’t looking.

Before we left the house in Prague that morning, I heard a piece of distressing news. It was 3:30am as our flight from Prague to Copenhagen was 7am. M informed me right after I got up that he forgot his driver’s licence at home in Singapore; about 9,842 km away.

I must be dreaming, I thought to myself and was about to walk back to bed. M repeated again and asked if I had my driver’s licence with me and I knew it wasn’t a dream when it was also confirmed by his father who was researching online for some alternatives.

Why is that important? Because our plan was to fly into to Copenhagen, rent a car from the airport and drive to Oslo and then to the Jotunheimen area, where we would hike through Jotunheimen South from Gjendesheim through Besseggen ridge to somewhere before making our loop back to the car. The drive from Copenhagen to Oslo is about 606.3km according to Google Maps. That would mean me, a driver from Singapore who hardly drives and even when I did drive my Dad’s car in Singapore, it was hardly 40km in a day given that Singapore is only that small. The drive from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia is half that distance.

After I’d accepted the fact that I would be driving until he gets his licence shipped via express air to him, my next thought was safety. Would I keep the both of us safe as I have not driven on the  right side of the road before (in the left side of the car). The driver’s seat is on the right side of the car in Singapore and we drive on the left side of the road. That would mean getting used to this way of driving really quickly. I started researching about driving in Norway and the Nordics when we got to the airport.

So we left Prague for Copenhagen and took things one step at a time. We went to the Sixt counter at the airport to complete the car rental process. As M booked the car under his name, the licence we use for the rental had to be his licence. Yes, we tried…So we got that switched to my name and my Credit Card. After all that, he mentioned about the car we were renting. It was a manual SUV. Although I have a licence to drive manual cars, I’ve not driven one since 2009 and I’m definitely not confident of having to deal with everything else which will be new and to remember to clutch in whenever I’m changing gears…so no. I requested for an auto and he said he can’t guarantee if there’s one available right then. We were lucky. He found an Opel Astra SUV which was an auto car. That costed more to rent.

So now that we had the car and also decided that we would drive to Oslo that day, we made our way to Starbucks where we bought our very expensive drinks and muffins. Copenhagen is a very expensive city as we later learnt when we picked up our lunches.

As my dad was cat sitting for us while we were away, I asked my dad to send M’s driver’s licence to us via express air parcel. He went over to our place as soon as he could that night (it was night for him when we contacted him that morning when we arrived in Copenhagen). As the parcel can only be picked up and sent during office hours, the licence can only be on its way from the next day. We provided the address of a DHL office at Lillehammer where we’d intended to pick the licence up from. Little did we know at that point in time that it was impossible for us to send it to a DHL office as it was a ‘receiver point’ similar to ComGateway where they would receive parcels on a registered customer’s behalf and then ship that out accordingly. 

We stopped by Copenhagen city and picked up some lunch and food for our long drive to Oslo. Our very expensive lunch from a burger pop-up store, I must add. In addition to getting used to driving on a different side, I was also trying not to run any cyclists over. There were cyclists everywhere in the city. Now, that is something we should have in Singapore as well. Cyclists in Copenhagen enjoy a proper fairway. In Singapore, cyclists fear for their lives on the road with impatient and errant drivers who do not wish to share the road with anyone, sometimes, not even with fellow motorists. Ergo, more accidents from rogue driving, impatience and road rage.

The highlight of my drive was driving over the Øresund Bridge. As you can see, it links Denmark to Sweden with parts of the link in a tunnel and we emerged into the light again from the tunnel onto the bridge, which was rather cool in my opinion. Of course, since I was driving, I couldn’t take any photos. So here is an aerial view from Wikipedia.

Just in January 2016, on the back of the European migrant crisis, Sweden was granted a temporary exemption from the Schengen Agreement. That meant that travellers between the Nordic countries will now need to provide photographic proof of identity or passport, after 60 years of passport-free travel, when they cross the border to Sweden.

Image taken from Wikipedia.

So after about 4km in the tunnel and about 8km on the bridge, we were in Sweden. Most parts of the drive was in Sweden through the E20 and E6 motorways. Once I got onto the highway, it was a breeze…of about 130km/h. Traffic in Sweden was heavier than in Norway, with the higher population in Sweden compared with Norway; almost double. There are also more mass market brands present in Sweden. Like we knew we were out of Sweden when the views of ‘the famous golden arches of McDonald’s’ along the highway disappeared. Not that we would have wanted McDonald’s in the Nordics given the ‘smorgasbord’ of gourmet choices available. There were a notable number of Teslas on the road in Norway. Norway is one of the most EV-friendly countries. The Government laid out EV policies which provide EVs exemption from VAT and purchase tax which usually form about 50% of the total cost of the vehicle. The EVs are also exempt from road tolls, tunnel and ferry charges.

It’s mentioned on Google Maps that it would take an estimated 6h and 36 min drive from Copenhagen to Oslo. We got to our Oslo destination about 9pm. It is a fabulous place called Lysebu hotel in Oslo. About 20 minutes away from the city centre. It has modern rooms, very nordic style and rather spacious. Just check it out yourself here: http://www.lysebu.no/en/.

I was fascinated by their really furry chickens by the way…and no they didn’t serve chicken at the restaurant. The place just oozes simple elegance. We stayed at the hotel for two nights and explored some walks around the area.

Some places we made up the pronunciation. Like Frognerseteren, which sounded a lot like ‘frog in your system’ when we spoke that aloud. We went to Frognerseteren Restaurant and Cafe, which was a short walk from Lysebu and highly recommended.

Everything’s expensive in Norway. After discovery of Norway’s oil fields after 1969, the country now has a much higher standard of living compared with its neighbours, Sweden and Denmark. It was previously about 30 or 40 percent lower in 1960.

The food was so-so. It wasn’t exceptional. I think it was the ambience of eating outdoors in the fresh air with a great view that led to the perceived better tasting food. It wasn’t bad. Definitely fresh and good.
Apple pie
The highly recommended apple pie…but please go with one piece before getting the other. They are really sweet. Look at all that cream on the top…
View from the restaurant. It’s a little dark here due to the facing of the camera against the sun.

We walked for about 2 hours around the area before heading back to the hotel. We told ourselves that we needed all those carbs and calories for our long hike in Jotunheimen.





Walking to the lunch.


It’s summer! All the pretty flowers are in full bloom and there were so many different plants and flowers in Norway.


Hotel grounds


Keep your dog(s) on a leash? Chickens wandering? We were just guessing…

More in Part 2 of Walking in Norway.

Pretty Prague

I’ve always wanted to visit Prague. At least since I chanced upon pictures of Prague’s cobblestone streets, historical buildings and little cafes. From the pictures, the city looks romantic and yet mysterious. With its history, Prague reminds me of spy movies and also the TV series, The Americans.

Welcome to Prague!

We stayed at a house through a house exchange programme. So the owners of the house in Prague went to Canada to stay and the house in Prague became the ‘base’ or all the family members who were visiting for the wedding. There were seven people staying at the house which was split into two units. The owners of the house loaned us their car as part of the exchange. So, most of us got around in a Volkswagen Beetle. We certainly haven’t been in many Beetles and it was an experience for three adults and a baby in the backseat and two in the front. One of the relatives at the wedding who saw us ‘unfolding’ ourselves from the car asked, ‘Did you all really come out from that?’ That said, the space in the car is deceiving. It doesn’t look that big outside, but it was amazing how we managed to have three big and grown adults in the backseat and sometimes with a baby. Have I already mentioned that?

Uber was our other mode of transport getting from the house to the city. 

The wedding in Prague offered us many opportunities to experience the main tourist areas. We went to the Malá Strana district for our funicular ride up to Nebozízek, which is the middle station before Petřín, also where the wedding reception was held. 

It was our first time queuing and jostling with the crowd in Prague. The queue at Újezd station where we had to buy or ticket and then queue for the furnicular was pretty spectacular. When we got to the front before the ticket scanners, people were pushing and rushing to get through. That reminded me a little of China.

When we got through onto the platform, we rushed through the doors to get standing space. Nebozízek did not disappoint. The views were beautiful.

Beautiful colours on our walk to the station.



img_20160728_193034Lovely view from Nebozízek Restaurant, where the wedding reception was held.

Nebozízek Station
As part of the wedding reception, we were treated to the traditional brandy – The Slivovice (Plum brandy) from Valachian region of Moravia…by R.Jelinek. There are other flavours.
The little bottle of traditional Czech brandy…

There are other flavours from the same range of liquor. Frankly, I couldn’t tell the difference as that stuff is really lethal. It reminded me of bai jiu, which is also a clear liquor, but from China. I’m pretty sure I could have used that as a disinfectant.

I didn’t take any photographs of the food. We had a taste of traditional Czech cuisine at the reception. If you know me, you would have guessed my favourite – The strudel.

You do need to try traditional Czech cuisine, which actually is similar to German and Austrian cuisines. The similar traits include gravy, meats and the dumpling. The dumpling looks like a cauliflower but actually is made of dough and tastes quite good in the gravy.

This is a food compilation from some of our best food experiences in Prague:

Duck confit with dumpling.


Brunch at Augustine boutique hotel




The fish came whole…I looked to our Czech hosts who were seated next to me at dinner and they ordered the same dish. They ate their fish dish like pros, unlike me.



Oh, that lovely strudel with cream… I could have that again!

With limited time in Prague, we didn’t get to see many other places besides Prague Castle and Charles Bridge. How could we visit Prague and not experience Prague Castle?

Crossing Charles Bridge…and thinking that I would love to stay longer in Prague…]

It’s worth getting the ticket to the longer tour. Ours included entrance to:

  • Old Royal Palace
  • The Story of Prague Castle
  • Basilica of St George
  • Golden Lane
  • Powder Tower
  • St Vitus’s Cathedral

The ticket was 350kc which is about SGD19 or USD13 (according to rates on 26 December 2016).




All in all, do factor in about three hours for Prague Castle. Even so, that was a little of a rush for us before our next appointment. We rushed through a few segments. It was so crowded we probably appeared in one too many random photographs… Of the whole tour, one place which we could have left out was the Powder Tower.

On the upper level of Golden Lane, you’ll find lots of medieval armoury. It gets very crowded in there as it’s a small, narrow, walkway for people going in and out. The stairways are also very small and narrow. In the past, Golden Lane was known as Goldsmith’s Lane and the street outside (below), is one of the smallest streets in Prague city.

img_20160731_145151After we exited from Golden Lane… See how narrow the street is?




There are so many other places in Prague which we should also visit, explore and revisit again.